Visitors walk only where you drew.
Walking in a tour follows the connections you draw between points, nothing else. No walking hop or computed route will ever pass between unconnected points, which is what makes routes trustworthy: the tour walks exactly the paths a person can really walk. Visitors can still jump straight to any point from the map or the Points list, jumping is browsing, not walking.
Visitors open Navigate, pick where they want to go, and the tour computes the walking route along your drawn paths, then steps them through it point by point, with the guidance disc showing the way at every stop.
Every tour opens at the start point you chose, facing exactly the direction you set. Set it once in the editor and every visitor’s first view is the one you designed, on every arrival.
Visitors do not have to follow a route. In free roam they aim the disc and click to hop to any connected point, the compass dots around the disc hint where other paths lead. Everything still honors your drawn connections.
Opening View is a row in the Build rail, and the drawer it opens holds two buttons and nothing else. Start the tour here makes the whole tour open at the photo you are standing in, facing the way you are facing. Face this way on arrival sets what a visitor sees when they arrive at this point as a destination. Each one gets a Clear beneath it once it is set, and a line that says what is set now.
Opening the drawer switches the view to 360° if you were on Map, because the photo is the thing you are aiming.
The fine adjustments are not here. Yaw, pitch, roll, Level horizon, the look up and down limits and the zoom locks live in Fine-tune View, the next row down in the rail. The tour's Default destination lives in Tour Features.
Back at the top of the drawer closes Opening View and slides the Build rail back into place. It only closes the drawer: the panorama, the map, and your selected point all stay exactly as they are.
There is no Save button in this drawer by design. Every control saves the moment you change it, locally and to the cloud, so Back is safe to press at any time. You never lose work by leaving.
Use it when you are done aiming the current point, or click another tool row in the rail, which swaps drawers directly.
Face this way on arrival reads the panorama's live camera, its compass direction, its tilt and its horizon roll, and saves all three as this point's arrival view in one press. Drag the photo until it frames what you want the visitor to see, then press the button. A toast confirms it, and the save goes to the cloud as well as to your machine.
It governs arrivals at this point as a destination, when a visitor picks it by name and is routed here. A visitor walking through on the way somewhere else is still turned toward the next point, so the view you save never fights the walking route.
Zoom is not part of it; zoom limits are set separately in Fine-tune View. Once the view is set, the line beneath the button says which direction the point arrives facing and a Clear appears, which puts the point back to arriving facing the next point.
Level horizon arms the Level Horizon tool over the panorama: a line with two drag handles, plus a small toolbar showing a live Tilt readout with Apply and Cancel buttons. Clicking Level horizon again while the tool is up cancels it. While the tool is armed, any roll correction the point already had is temporarily set to zero so you mark the true horizon on the raw photo; corrections never stack on top of each other.
To use it: click the button, then drag both handles onto something in the photo you know is truly level, a countertop, a window line, the sea. Watch the Tilt readout, then click Apply. The photo reloads level and the measured correction is saved as this point's Roll.
Reach for it whenever a pano looks tilted: leaning walls, a sloped floor line, a crooked doorframe. It is far more accurate than eyeballing the Roll slider. Corrections are limited to 45 degrees in either direction; a photo more tilted than that needs to be re-shot.
The Yaw slider sets the compass direction this point's camera faces when it opens, from 0 to 359 degrees in 1 degree steps. As you drag, the live panorama turns with the slider so you can watch the framing change, and the degree readout on the right updates in real time.
The value saves when you release the slider: it writes locally and to the cloud, the point reloads at the new direction, and the opening view is marked owner-set, so this point now always opens at your authored direction instead of auto-facing the next point.
Use it for fine nudges after Use current view, a few degrees to center a doorway or a piece of furniture. For big moves it is faster to grab the photo, drag it where you want, and click Use current view again.
The Pitch slider sets the up/down tilt of the opening view: -90 is straight down at the floor, 0 is eye level, +90 is straight up at the ceiling. Dragging tilts the live panorama in real time, and the degree readout follows.
The value saves when you release the slider. Like Yaw, saving marks the opening view owner-set, so the point opens at exactly this tilt for every visitor from then on.
Keep opening pitch at or near 0 for almost every point: visitors expect to arrive looking straight ahead, the way the tour itself opens. A small downward tilt of -5 to -10 can feel natural indoors when the subject is a counter or a piece of furniture. Avoid strong tilts as an opening; they disorient people who just walked in.
The Roll slider rotates the image around your line of sight to correct a camera that was not level when the photo was taken, from -45 to +45 degrees. This is a per-photo fix, not a creative control: at 0 the photo shows exactly as shot.
Unlike Yaw and Pitch there is no live preview while you drag: the readout updates as you move, and the photo reloads with the new roll when you release the slider. That release also saves the value and marks the opening view owner-set.
For anything beyond a degree or two, use the Level horizon button instead, it measures the correction for you instead of making you guess. Keep the slider for tiny final touches after leveling.
The Min field under Look up/down sets the lowest angle visitors can tilt the view down to at this point, in degrees. -90 lets them look straight down at the floor; 0 stops them at eye level. Until you set a value the point uses -70, which lets people see most of the floor without staring directly at the tripod spot.
Type a number between -90 and 0 (the field accepts up to +90, but a positive minimum would stop visitors from ever looking level) or use the field's small step arrows. The value saves when you press Enter or click away, and the photo reloads with the limit applied so you can test it immediately by dragging down.
Raise it toward -40 or -30 on points with messy floors, cables, or an unpatched tripod shadow. Keep it at -70 or open it to -90 when the floor is clean or covered by a Nadir Patch disc. This limit applies to this point only until you push it everywhere with Apply limits to all. It does not change the opening view itself, only how far visitors can explore downward.
The Max field under Look up/down sets the highest angle visitors can tilt the view up to at this point. +90, the default, lets them look straight up at the ceiling or sky; 0 stops them at eye level.
Type a number and it saves when you press Enter or click away; the photo reloads with the limit live so you can drag up and feel where it stops.
Lower it to 30 or 45 to keep eyes off unfinished ceilings, harsh light fixtures, or stitching seams at the top of the pano. Leave it at 90 for exteriors, vaulted rooms, and anywhere the ceiling is part of the show. Like the Min field, it is per-point until you use Apply limits to all.
Lock current zoom as closest saves the panorama's zoom level, exactly as it is right now, as the closest visitors can zoom in at this point. The number in parentheses on the button is the currently saved limit, measured in degrees of view width (horizontal field of view; a smaller number is a tighter zoom). A dash means this point has no saved limit and no tour default exists yet, in which case the built-in floor of 50 degrees applies.
To use it: zoom the photo in with the scroll wheel or a pinch until you reach the tightest view that still looks sharp, then click the button. A toast confirms the degree figure and the button label updates to match. Click again at a different zoom any time to replace it. If no photo is loaded you get a warning toast instead.
Set this on any tour where the photos soften when magnified: it stops visitors from zooming until pixels smear. Dial it in on one representative point, then push it to the whole tour with Apply limits to all, which also makes it the default for points you add later.
Lock current zoom as farthest is the partner of the closest lock: it saves the panorama's current zoom as the widest visitors can pull back at this point. The parenthesized number is the saved limit in degrees of view width (a bigger number is a wider view). A dash means nothing is saved for this point and no tour default exists, so the built-in ceiling of 120 degrees applies.
Zoom the photo out to the widest framing you are happy with, then click the button. The toast confirms the figure and the label updates. It needs a loaded photo, same as the closest lock.
Use it to rein in the fisheye look: very wide zooms bend straight lines at the edges of the frame, which reads as distortion in interiors. Around 100 to 110 degrees keeps rooms feeling spacious without the warp. Push your choice tour-wide with Apply limits to all.
Apply limits to all copies this point's view limits, both Look up/down values and both zoom locks, to every point in the tour in one pass. The zoom values also become the tour defaults, so points you add later inherit them automatically. A confirmation dialog shows the total point count before anything happens; cancel it and no points are changed.
Only limits actually set on this point are copied. A value you never set here is skipped, so it will not blank out numbers other points already have. When the pass finishes, a toast reports how many points were updated and the current point reloads with the limits live.
The intended workflow: pick one representative point, dial in its four limits until dragging and zooming feel right, then push them everywhere. There is no single undo for the pass; to change your mind, set new values and run it again, or use Use tour default on individual points to drop their zoom overrides.
Use tour default removes this point's own zoom limits, both the closest and farthest locks, so the point falls back to the tour-wide defaults. The photo reloads with the default range live, a toast confirms, and after a moment the drawer refreshes: the numbers in parentheses on the two lock buttons now show the tour defaults, or a dash if the tour has none.
It only touches zoom. The Look up/down tilt limits stay exactly as they are, because there is no tour-level default for pitch; adjust the Min and Max fields yourself if you want those changed too.
Use it after experimenting on a single point: one click puts it back in line with the rest of the tour instead of hunting for the old numbers.
Start the tour here decides where the whole tour opens. Load the point you want, spin the photo to the view that should greet visitors, and press it. The start point and the exact facing are captured together in that one press, so there is nothing else to set afterward.
The line underneath names the current start point, or says the tour opens at the first point when nothing is set. Once a start point is set, a Clear appears beneath the button and puts it back to the first point. When you are already standing on the start point the button reads "The tour already starts here" and is dimmed.
The editor itself opens at the start point, facing the same way the tour does, so every time you come back you review the tour the way visitors first meet it. The group holding that point also carries a small opening-view mark in the Points list.
Default destination is a dropdown in the Tour Features drawer. It pre-fills the To box when a visitor opens Navigate, so your most popular spot is already chosen and one tap starts the walk. It is a shortcut and nothing more: visitors can still pick anywhere.
The list offers the points whose own Destination switch is on. If no point is switched on yet it lists every real point instead, waypoints excluded. Choose ", none, the visitor chooses , " to leave the To box empty.
Your choice saves the moment you make it, and a toast confirms which place Navigate will open on, or that it opens empty again.
The two round horizon handles appear when the Level Horizon tool is armed, starting at mid-height, a quarter in from each side. A line connects them; that line is your claim about where level really is in the photo. The Tilt readout in the toolbar follows the line live as you drag.
Drag each handle, with mouse or finger, onto something you know is truly horizontal: the two ends of a countertop, a long window sill, the sea line. Handles stay inside the photo area, they cannot be dragged off the edge.
Spread the handles as far apart as you can. A wide baseline makes the measured angle far more accurate than two handles close together, the same way a longer level reads truer than a short one. When the line sits exactly on the real horizon, click Apply.
The Tilt readout in the Level Horizon toolbar shows the angle of the line between your two handles as drawn on screen, in degrees with a sign and one decimal place. It updates live while you drag.
Read it as the measured misalignment of the photo: +0.0 means the line you marked is already perfectly level and Apply would change nothing. A positive or negative figure is exactly the tilt that will be corrected; when you click Apply, the photo is rolled by the opposite of this number to bring your marked line level.
Use it as a sanity check before applying. If the readout says several degrees but the photo looks fine to your eye, your handles are probably not on a truly level feature; re-place them before committing.
Apply commits the leveling: it takes the tilt of your marked line, flips its sign, limits it to 45 degrees either way, and saves the result as this point's Roll. The tool closes, the photo reloads level, and a toast reports the exact roll that was applied, to a tenth of a degree.
The save is immediate, locally and to the cloud, and it marks this point's opening view as owner-set, the same as moving any of the Fine-tune sliders. The Roll slider in the drawer updates to the new value.
Click it only once the handles sit exactly on a truly level feature and the Tilt readout looks believable. If the number seems wrong, keep dragging; nothing is committed until you press Apply.
Cancel closes the Level Horizon tool without applying anything. Because arming the tool temporarily zeroes the point's roll so you can measure on the raw photo, Cancel puts the previous correction back exactly as it was. The photo returns to how it looked before you opened the tool.
Click it whenever you change your mind, or click the Level horizon button in the drawer again, which cancels the same way.
It is always safe: no handle position, no readout value, nothing from the session is kept unless you pressed Apply.
The summary line is the audit's tally. It reads "N things to look at. Tap any row to jump to that point and fix it." where N counts every finding across all four categories, or "All clear. Every point is reachable and every step has a floor tag." when the audit finds nothing. A clean run also shows a green "✓ All routes pass" row in the list below.
If the line says the route engine is unavailable and asks you to reload, the routing module failed to load in this session: reload the editor page and open Route Check again.
The count recomputes every time the drawer opens, so the fix loop is: tap a row, fix it, reopen the drawer, watch the number fall. Aim for all clear before you publish.
Four kinds of row appear, each under its own heading with a count beside it, and each carrying a colored dot.
Red, "Points visitors can't reach": no open path leads there, so extend the travel path toward it or adjust the keep-out zone. Amber, "Reachable only through a blocked area": the only way in crosses a keep-out zone, which is fine for a marked destination, but fix the zone or add a capture when you can. Amber, "Tag points the wrong way": a placed tag aims at a point the path never goes to, so remove it or re-aim it. Blue, "Steps with no floor tag": that step has no placed floor tag, so routes use an auto-arrow until you place one.
Every row is clickable. Clicking loads that point in the photo, selects it in the Points list, centers the map on it and turns the point tags back on, so you land on the problem ready to fix it.
The placement panel shows one chip per connection on the open point. A ► marker means that connection's tag has not been placed in the panorama yet; a ✓ means it has. The counter on the left reads "N of M to place": M is every connection this point has, N is how many still lack a hand-placed tag. When a point has no connections at all, the panel says so and points you at + Add stop.
To place a tag: click a chip, it glows to show it is armed, then click the spot in the panorama where that point is actually visible. One click writes one tag at exactly that spot and nothing else changes, no auto-fill, no side effects. Clicking a ✓ chip re-arms it so you can re-place a tag you are not happy with.
Only one chip can be armed at a time, arming another switches, and Esc disarms without placing. After each placement the chip flips to ✓ and the counter drops.
Work through every chip on a point, then use the next-point link that appears to sweep the rest of the tour. Well-placed tags are what make the walking arrows land on the real doorway or path instead of floating in space.
The × that appears when you hover a connection chip removes that connection entirely. A confirm dialog names both points first; accepting deletes the link in both directions, including any tags placed for it, on this point and the other one.
Use it on wrong or redundant links, for example two points connected straight across a wall or a pond. Removal is not undoable from the dialog, but you can rebuild the same connection any time with + Add stop and re-place its tag.
+ Add stop sits at the end of the chip row and only appears while there are points not yet connected to the open one. It opens a picker listing every eligible point, sorted by number, with names.
Choosing a point creates the connection in both directions with no tag yet, and immediately arms the new chip: your very next click in the panorama places its tag. That makes the add-connect-place loop a single motion, pick, click the panorama, done.
Click outside the picker or press Esc to close it without adding anything. Connect points a visitor can genuinely walk between; if the real route bends around something, connect the points anyway and shape the map line with a Detour path.
Each row in the + Add stop picker is one point you can connect: its number and display name. Clicking a row closes the picker, creates the two-way connection, refreshes the panel, and arms the new chip so your next panorama click places its tag.
The list only ever shows points not already connected to the open one, so you cannot create duplicates. When every other point is already connected the picker says "All other stops are already connected." and offers nothing to click.
This link appears only when the open point is fully placed but other points in the tour still have unplaced connection tags. It names the next such point and clicking it loads that point straight into the viewer, with its own chips ready to place.
"Next" follows the walk order from the current point forward, and wraps around to the start of the walk if everything ahead is done, so repeatedly clicking it visits every remaining point exactly once.
This is the fastest way to finish tag placement across a whole tour: place all chips on a point, click the link, repeat until the panel reports that every connection has a tag and routing is ready.
The × on the right edge hides the placement panel to clear your view of the panorama. Hiding it changes nothing about the tour, it is purely visual.
If any tags remain unplaced anywhere in the tour, a small pill appears in the panel's place showing the live count, and clicking the pill brings the panel back. When nothing is left to place, no pill appears at all.
Hide the panel while doing photo work, Magic Erase, image adjust, logo placement, and restore it when you return to routing.
This pill appears only while the placement panel is hidden and work remains. Its label is a live readout: the number of connection tags still unplaced across the entire tour, not just the open point.
Click it to reopen the panel on the current point. Once every connection in the tour has a placed tag the pill disappears entirely, so its mere presence tells you routing is not finished yet.
Create Path starts drawing a path that shapes the map's walking route along the real walkway, around a lake, along a road, instead of cutting straight across. Paths never appear in the tour itself; visitors step point to point while the map line follows your dots.
Step one: the map comes up with a crosshair, and you click two connectors in any order. A connector can be a point pin or an existing detour dot, even one owned by another path, which then becomes a shared junction where the two paths meet. If you miss the pin, a click on bare ground within about 65 feet snaps to the nearest one.
Step two: click along the real walkway to drop detour dots. Each click lands in the nearest segment of the line, not at the end, so you can fill gaps in any order. Drag a dot to move it and the dashed preview re-bends live; remove one with its × in the menu. All controls stay in the menu, nothing floats over the map.
The path itself is not saved until you press ✓ Complete; ✕ Cancel or Esc backs out of the draft. Entering path mode automatically exits Add Point, Detour drop, and Categorize modes so map clicks cannot be misread.
✓ Complete appears once both connectors are picked and commits the path. It requires at least one detour dot, with none it refuses and tells you to drop one first, since a dotless path would change nothing.
On commit the path is saved and named after its two connectors, the route graph rebuilds once so tours immediately route along it, and the save goes straight to the cloud rather than waiting for the usual debounce. Each real point endpoint also gets an automatic TRAVEL PATH tag linked to the other end. It arrives unplaced: drag it into the photo to aim the arrow down the walkway (an aim you had already placed is kept). In the tour, pressing it jumps to the other endpoint; it adds no route edge and no map line, and it is cleaned up if the path is ever deleted.
A history entry is written, and the menu lands on the finished path's detail view where you can immediately edit, delete, or verify it. If you were editing an existing path, Complete also deletes any original dots you removed, unless another path still shares them.
✕ Cancel leaves path-drawing mode without saving. Cleanup is surgical: only detour dots created during this drawing session are deleted. Dots that existed before, ones reused from other paths as shared junctions, or the original dots of a path you were editing, are never touched, so cancelling can never corrupt a neighbouring path.
If you were editing an existing path, Cancel also restores that path's original dot list: every add and removal from the session is discarded. One exception: a dot you dragged keeps its new position, since moves save the moment you drop them; step a bad move back with undo.
Use it freely: until ✓ Complete is pressed, the path itself has not changed the tour's routing.
Each row in the Detour Points menu is one saved path, labeled by its two connectors. The number on the right is a readout of its live detour dots; it shows as "n/m" when some of the m dots no longer exist, and a ⚠ broken flag appears when the connectors or all dots are gone.
Hovering a row previews it: the path's dots and blue line highlight on the map, and if the path sits off screen the map pans over to it, returning the camera when you move off. Clicking commits, the menu drills into that path's detail panel where you can inspect, edit, or delete it.
Scan this list after big edits or point deletions: a broken flag here means routing along that path is dead and it should be deleted and redrawn.
The path detail panel lists the two connectors under Connects (amber dots) and every detour dot under Detour Points (cyan, each with its own number). The Detour Points counter counts dots that still exist, showing "n/m" when some are missing; missing entries are flagged, drawn dark red, and not clickable.
Click a live row and the map centers on it, zooming in if you were far out. If the row is a real point rather than a dot, its panorama also opens in the viewer, handy for checking what the walkway actually looks like at that spot.
Hovering a row highlights it on the map and pans only if it is off-screen, restoring the camera when you move away. So hover to peek, click to commit.
The × on a detour dot row removes that dot from the path. On a saved path the dot itself is also deleted from the map, even a dot other paths were sharing as a junction; those paths will then flag it as missing. To pull a shared dot out of one path safely, use ✎ Edit / add waypoints instead: its ✓ Complete keeps shared junctions alive. Removing the last dot deletes the whole path, since a path with no dots routes nothing, and the menu returns to the list.
While you are editing or drawing a path, the same × only removes the dot from the draft: dots created this session are destroyed, pre-existing ones simply leave the draft and survive on the map.
Removals on a saved path write straight to the cloud and rebuild routing. Use × for single stray dots; if the whole line is wrong, ✎ Edit / add waypoints and reshape it instead.
✎ Edit / add waypoints reopens the saved path in the same editor used to draw it, preloaded with its connectors and dots and already in the dot-placing step. Click the map to add dots (each lands in the nearest segment), drag dots to move them with the preview re-bending live, and use each row's × to remove.
Nothing commits until ✓ Complete, which saves the reshaped path, rebuilds routing, and deletes any original dots you removed unless another path shares them. ✕ Cancel puts the original dot list back; dots you dragged keep their new positions, so use undo if a move was wrong.
Edit is the right tool when a route changes on the ground, a closed gate, a new boardwalk, or when a path needs more dots to hug a curve convincingly.
🗑 Delete this group asks for confirmation, then removes the whole path: the path itself, every detour dot that belongs only to it, and the automatic TRAVEL PATH tags it created on its two endpoints. Dots shared with other paths survive as junctions, so deleting one path can never break its neighbours.
Routing rebuilds immediately and the path's blue line leaves the map; the two endpoints stay linked only by whatever placed tags they have of their own. The change saves to the cloud, and a history entry is written.
Delete broken paths flagged with ⚠ and redraw them fresh, and delete any path whose real-world route no longer exists. There is no undo from the confirm dialog itself, but the history entry lets you step back if you deleted the wrong one.
✓ Done closes the path's detail panel and returns to the Detour Points list. It is pure navigation: nothing is saved, changed, or discarded by pressing it, edits on a saved path were already committed as you made them.
It exists so the detail view has one obvious exit, styled as this menu's single primary button.
Route Check tests the whole tour at once. It is a row in the Build rail: press it and the drawer opens with a count of everything worth looking at, then the findings underneath. There is no precondition, and it hides the point tags while it is open so the map reads clearly.
It looks for four things: points no open path reaches, points reachable only by crossing a keep-out zone, placed tags aiming at a point the path never goes to, and steps with no floor tag. When none of them turn up it says every point is reachable and every step has a floor tag.
Run it after you move points, redraw a path or change a keep-out zone, and again before you share the tour.
This switch lives in the Import Panos drawer and it is off for every new tour. Off means an import places your points on the map and draws no paths at all; you connect them yourself, by hand, one by one, or with the buttons below.
On restores the old behaviour: the importer guesses connections from GPS geometry as photos arrive. Outdoors, on open ground, those guesses are decent. Indoors they are not: GPS drifts through walls, so rooms that only look adjacent get wired together and you arrive at a web nobody drew. If your tour is inside a building, leave this off.
Whichever way you set it, the standing law holds: every path in your tour stays until you remove it. Moving a point re-aims its arrows and changes nothing else. Only the scissors, the connection chip, or deleting a point removes a path.
This button in the Import Panos drawer runs the auto-connector across every point in the tour, once, right now. It asks first, because indoors GPS guesses can draw paths through walls, and because every path it creates is a real path: yours to keep, yours to delete, and never touched by anything automatic afterward.
Paths you already made are safe. The connector only adds; it cannot remove or rewire what exists. Keep-out zones are honoured as always: no path is created across one.
Use it on an outdoor tour where GPS is trustworthy and you want the whole property wired in one press. For interiors, skip it and place your connections by hand or point by point.
If an earlier import wired your tour into a web you never asked for, this button in the Import Panos drawer takes it back. It walks every connection and removes a pair only when neither end was placed by hand and at least one end was placed by a machine. It tells you how many it found and asks before removing anything.
What always survives: every path you drew yourself, every tag you aimed by hand, every corridor path, and every pair you switched off with the scissors. Those belong to you and this tool cannot touch them.
It is a cleanup, so most tours press it once, right after turning auto-connect off, and then never need it again.
One word does four jobs in this editor. A floor tag is the arrow on the ground that walks a visitor to the next point. You place those in the Point Tags drawer, and most of the path work is about them.
A point of interest is a pin inside a photo that opens content. You build those in the Points of Interest drawer, on the tab labeled Tags. An extra name is another name a place is known by. You type those into the Add a tag field on a point's row in the Points list, so a visitor searching for ER still finds Door 49.
A featured tag promotes one of those extra names to a one-tap button at the top of the visitor menu, up to six of them. You choose those in Tour Features. Read which drawer is open and the word tells you which one you have.
Open Keep-out Zones and press the Zones tab. The card reads "Every area you have marked on this tour" and gives each zone a row. New zones are named Keep-out 1, Keep-out 2, and so on. Run your cursor down the rows and each zone lights up on the map as you pass. With nothing painted yet the tab says so and tells you to paint one.
Click a name and type over it to rename that zone, then press Enter. Press the pencil, or click the row, to edit one zone on its own: the map pans to it and its corners become square nodes. Drag a node to move it, drag a faint midpoint to add one, right-click a node to delete it. Click the row again when you are done.
Press the cross on a row to remove the zone, and a confirm names it first. Deleting gives back every connection that zone had switched off, all at once. That is the repair for an area you painted wrong.
Red on the map is a wall, and there are two kinds that do not look alike. A wall you traced inside a photo lands on the map as a line of red dots, bright while that point is open and dim while another one is. A wall you drew on the map is one solid red line, much thicker. Click it and it fades to half and grows a white circle at each end; drag a circle to move that end.
A doorway is green, the same green as a finished connection, so tell them apart by width. A doorway is thick and runs straight between your two clicks. A connection is thin and runs pin to pin. On a traced wall, a doorway shows as a break in the dots.
Walls are reference drawing. They never create a path, never block one, and never remove one. To stop routes crossing an area, paint a keep-out zone instead. If a traced wall lands in the wrong place, check Camera height in the Walls drawer. Show walls on the map hides every wall and doorway at once.
Some lines on the map exist only while your finger is down. Box draws a dashed orange rectangle over the pins it will pick. Lasso draws a dashed orange outline with a dot at every click, a ring on the first dot, and a fainter line closing the loop back to it.
Cut paths in the Point Tags drawer draws a red dashed stroke that follows your cursor, and every connection line it crosses is cut when you release. Drawing a wall trails red dots from your first click to the cursor. Painting a keep-out zone lays a wide see-through red stroke under the brush, and switching to Erase turns that stroke near white.
Here is the test. If a line vanishes when you let go, it was a tool. Anything still on screen afterward is tour data.
Six rows sit under Navigation in the Build rail, and the order you work them matters. Do the connections first: open Point Tags and place every arrow until no unplaced tags remain. Then Detour Points, to bend the map lines onto the real walkways. Then Keep-out Zones, for water, cliffs and private ground. Then Accessible Routing, for the steps and curbs you saw on the walk. Then Route Check, to find what you missed.
Opening View comes last, under the Photo heading, because aiming photos is wasted work before the walking is right. Points of Interest waits as well. It is content, and it earns its place once the tour walks properly.
Here is the trap this order avoids. Painting a zone switches off any connection whose line crosses it, and tells you how many it took. Paint first and you spend an hour drawing links the zone will cut.